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  #41  
Unread January 28th, 2012, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Avus View Post
That's the plan Chuck: "one-canopy-fits-all".

Again great work so far, SuperCobra.
Thanks for all the wonderful pics they really will help.
My idea is to have something in there "just to add some realism with panels closed" like you said. But who knows where I'll go from there.

Pardon my ignorance, but I was wondering, since the Huey and the Cobra have the same origin could I use some parts of the Huey transmission (from MRC/Academy's UH-1C) on the Cobra?
The AH-1G used the same running gear as the UH-1B/C (Bell 204). The AH-1J used a different drive-train - the same the UH-1N (Bell 212). The AH-1T used the same engine as the AH-1J (hotter version) but the rest of the drive-train (rotors/transmission was different (based upon Bell 214). The AH-1W had different engines (same as 214ST) than the AH-1T but the transmission and rotors were the same as the AH-1T.

Below are same pics of the 204, 212, and AH-1W. Aside from the accessories mounted on them, the 204 and 212 are fairly close in size and shape but the AH-1W transmission is a bit different.

Depending on the application, the various transmissions look quite a bit different with the various accessories (rotor brakes, generators, hyd pumps, transmitters, sensors, filler funnels, etc).

Bottom line, when viewed from the top looking through the little opening in the top of the doghouse, you probably can't tell the difference. especially since most of the view of the transmission is blocked by the lower components of the rotor system (swashplates, levers, and drive links).

The last photos of the W show everything else that reside in the transmission compartment but after scratch building most of that, I found very little of it can be seen. If you are leaving the panels closed, you can probably get away with a generic transmission top and some blanking plates. I'll post some pics of what I did later.

Bell 204/UH-1C (pics from web):




Bell 212/UH-1N/AH-1J (pics from web):





AH-1T/AH-1W:



AH-1W XMSN compartment:









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  #42  
Unread January 30th, 2012, 01:37 PM
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Thanks for the info, Tank and SuperCobra, and for the grat pictures as well.
I'll see what can be used and what not; I was hoping to save myself from more scratch building.
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  #43  
Unread January 30th, 2012, 07:17 PM
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A picture is worth a thousand words so I'll try to save myself some typing. Hopefully, the following picture series will show:
- the kit is rather obviously lacking any hint of a transmission
- you can't see much through the top of the doghouse except the transmission
- you can put almost anything you want in there as long as it has some depth
- I went completely overboard filling the transmission compartment given what is actually visible through the hole.

















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  #44  
Unread January 31st, 2012, 07:48 AM
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Hey Randy, this is just great. I've been wondering for the last year about what to do with that empty hole below and around the rotor mast. Well, you've solved that problem. I'm getting my mojo back on this build. I'm gonna try to bend the coat hangers this weekend. I'll let you know how that works out. LOL Did you just use the kit struts to mark a piece of wood correctly to use as a jig to bend the wire?
Chuck
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  #45  
Unread January 31st, 2012, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by otis252 View Post
Hey Randy, this is just great. I've been wondering for the last year about what to do with that empty hole below and around the rotor mast. Well, you've solved that problem. I'm getting my mojo back on this build. I'm gonna try to bend the coat hangers this weekend. I'll let you know how that works out. LOL Did you just use the kit struts to mark a piece of wood correctly to use as a jig to bend the wire?
Chuck
Chuck,
Correct. I used the kit crosstubes to mark a piece of wood and then a scroll saw and sander to cut it to the profile. I also soaked the wood with superglue because the wire was making a groove in the wood. I made the jig because I plan to build a few of these kits but if you are just doing one model I wouldn't bother with the jig. Use the 10 gauge copper electrical wire and you can easily bend it by just holding it up to the kit part without needing a jig. I recommend the copper wire anyway. A lot easier to work with than hangers and it is still heavy enough to support the weight.



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  #46  
Unread February 1st, 2012, 05:33 PM
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Thanks, I just have one question about the 10 gauge copper wire. I'm doning my Cobra with a resin cockpit and the resin WW resin turned exhaust, do you think that wire will support all that? I'm hopping you're right, I'm gonna check it out tmw, whata you think?
Chuck
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  #47  
Unread February 1st, 2012, 06:49 PM
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Chuck,
That copper wire is pretty stiff in short lengths so I think it will support the weight. The problem/weak area is the saddle where the crosstubes meet the skid. Since they are close to the same diameter you don't have much meat left when drilling a hole in the skids to insert the cross tubes. Another problem with the copper vs the coat hanger is the copper is very easy to bend in longer lengths (more leverage) and if you get bends in the wrong axis you pretty much have to start again with a straight piece.
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Unread February 1st, 2012, 06:54 PM
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Thanks, that was my next question. If it's coat hangers or 10 gauge, I was concerned about the saddles and connecting them to the skids. How'd that work out for you, any tips on making the saddles and attaching them to the skids? Thanks for all your help Randy.
Chuck
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  #49  
Unread February 1st, 2012, 06:59 PM
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Some more tweaks. First the horizontal stabs on the tailboom. The kit piece has one continuous tab you insert before you put the two fuselage halves together. This leaves a gap that is very hard to fill and in reality there should be a space between each stab and the fuselage. The stabs are moveable and mount on a control tube that runs through the tailboom and connect them.

For my tweak, I cut the center out of the kit stab so I had two separate ones. To fill the slot in the fuselage halves I put scotch tape on the outside, laid the fuselage on its side, and then filled the slot with superglue. Came out nice and smooth when the tape was removed. I then drilled holes in the glue and ends of the stabs to insert a rod.

Other tweaks you can see in the picture are channel brackets forward of the stabs for the blade tiedown, a formation light, and larger taillight housings that include countermeasure antennas (needed for the NTS) but not for older (pre mid 1990's) versions. The taillight fairings are cobra Company. I think the formation light was Eduard.

Also, the forward driveshaft cover is doubled and should overlap the aft cover. That is what the white styrene is but I'm not happy with how it turned out.







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Last edited by SuperCobra; February 16th, 2012 at 06:46 PM.
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  #50  
Unread February 1st, 2012, 07:12 PM
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More tweaks...

The belly on this "gorgeous" kit is lacking a lot of detail. All it had is a rudimentary wire cutter and c-box/transmission oil cooler shroud. It is missing a search light, relief tube, and a lot of misc panels, drain lines, and antennas. There are also two small soda can sized holes near the searchlight and wire cutter for cooling the black boxes in the ammo bay.

The oil cooler shroud (not installed yet in my build photo) goes over the yellow fan (I added). There were two styles of shroud on the real aircraft. The old boxing has the smaller/older shroud but it is the wrong shape. The NTS boxing and the Cobra company set has the larger shroud. Since the shroud is open on the aft end and the sides are grilled, you should add something (a fan in a hole) to go under it (the yellow piece in my build).

You can also see in the photos where I've added on to the steps on the side of the fuselage. There were about half the length they needed to be.













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Last edited by SuperCobra; February 1st, 2012 at 07:20 PM.
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  #51  
Unread February 16th, 2012, 06:44 PM
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Adding some photos of the real aircraft to go along with my previous tweaks:













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  #52  
Unread February 16th, 2012, 08:14 PM
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There are two different styles of oil cooler fairings used on AH-1Ws. Check your reference photos but generally, the smaller one (first two pics) is on early lots (and appears again on the AH-1Z) - and the larger one appeared in the early 1990s but may not have been retrofitted to all aircraft.











The basic 1/35 kit comes with the smaller fairing but it is molded as a solid piece rather than a screened fairing. Cobra Company includes the larger fairing in the NTS update and it is also included in the Academy NTS boxing:





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Last edited by SuperCobra; February 18th, 2012 at 07:07 PM. Reason: Clarification
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  #53  
Unread February 16th, 2012, 08:28 PM
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Also note that on some aircraft, there is a bulge in the belly panel just aft of the oil cooler fairing (first picture below). This is another area where you have to check photos of the specific aircraft you are modeling. Typically all aircraft (basic, NTS, AH-1Z) could have this bulge except AH-1Ts that were converted to AH-1Ws (160XXX bunos). These bunos typically don't have the bulge but it is hit or miss on other aircraft. The bulge was for the OBIGGS which was disabled early in service but not all aircraft were retrofitted with the non-bulged fairing. In the case of the specific aircraft I'm modelling (162542 - the scheme on the TwoBobs and NTS boxing decal sheet with the snake on the side) the bulge is not present so I don't need a "tweak" as all of the kit boxings represent a non-OBIGGS aircraft.





A couple of other tweaks to note in my build below: the rubber weather stripping between the tailboom and the exhaust fairings, the bolt inspection covers just aft of the tailboom/fuselage seam, the screen on the utility hyd compartment (and the scratchbuilt interior to that compartment that i put way too much detail in since you can't really see in there without a flashlight), the pressure refuel port/cap, and the plexiglass round window in the panel under the stubwings.

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Last edited by SuperCobra; February 16th, 2012 at 08:51 PM.
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  #54  
Unread February 16th, 2012, 09:24 PM
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Sorry about the various pic sizes. Guess I'll have to take photobucket 101.
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  #55  
Unread February 18th, 2012, 12:50 PM
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Looking great!!! I'm paying close attention to this one.

I have Cobra's NTS set too, so your build is really helpful. I'm curious about the oil cooler in the Cobra set and what appears random perforations instead of mesh screen. Are those perforations accurate? If not, I was thinking of filling all the holes, sanding them smooth and making a decal to place over them to represent mesh screen.
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  #56  
Unread February 18th, 2012, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sting View Post
Looking great!!! I'm paying close attention to this one.

I have Cobra's NTS set too, so your build is really helpful. I'm curious about the oil cooler in the Cobra set and what appears random perforations instead of mesh screen. Are those perforations accurate? If not, I was thinking of filling all the holes, sanding them smooth and making a decal to place over them to represent mesh screen.
Thanks Sting. I'm not sure what happened to Cobra Company's cooler but the one I got is as it appears in the pictures - the holes are sporadic. Maybe I just got a poor copy as I'm generally very pleased with his products. I think I even gave him the reference material for this and probably didn't have as good of pictures as I do now. He made the NTS update shortly after the NTS came out and well before Academy updating their molds. The rest of the CC update parts are very close.

As you can see in the above pictures the real screen is evenly spaced holes. The holes are close enough together so that from a distance it is easy to see through. Especially since the back of the fairing is open and plenty of light can get through. What I would do is cut out that part completely and install mesh.

A couple of other issues I see with the CC cooler is that he added the "plumbing" to the underside of the screen. The plumbing should be hanging from the fuselage. Another reason to cut this out and install mesh.

If your aircraft has the larger fairing I would also cut off the kit lump that is on there and file the hole square and stick a cylinder and some plumbing in the square to give it some depth. I'll post more pictures later that show this area better. I might have to redo my representation of the cooler as it is too large now that i look at it closer.

One final thing I noticed about the CC shroud is that it seems quite a big larger than the one that was added in the new Academy boxing. That one looks better all around to my eyes. If you have the NTS boxing of the Academy kit, I would go with the kit part. This is one area where Academy had some attention to detail in their updated NTS boxing. If you look at their drawings, only one of the three decal schemes requires the larger cooler. They got that right too. I've been looking through various pictures and see no pattern on which aircraft had the larger shroud. I think it is just a matter of when they came off the line or went into rework. From my photos, the larger shroud appeared as early as 1991 but the smaller shroud is still installed on some aircraft. In fact, it looks like the AH-1Z is using the smaller shroud. If I recall correctly, the larger shroud may have been associated with a nav upgrade and relocating and/or removing an ADF antenna.

The pics below show the kit part and the CC part and then the NTS boxing decal schemes (note the last scheme shows the larger fairing and the instructions only have you installing this on scheme #3. Show check your references for the scheme you are building. The last pics show the actual aircraft in those schemes.

Do you know which scheme you are doing yet?













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  #57  
Unread February 18th, 2012, 09:48 PM
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Here are some more pics of the oil cooler. The first pic shows the smaller style. The subsequent pics are of the larger shroud but what is underneath is the same for both styles. In the second pic you can see how transparent the screen is. Might seem nit noid replicating this detail but it is just as visible as a lot of detail folks add to wheel wells so I thought I'd share the pics for those who want to go that far. My apologies to those who think too many pictures are a bad thing.











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Last edited by SuperCobra; February 18th, 2012 at 09:54 PM.
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  #58  
Unread February 20th, 2012, 01:19 AM
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Thankis for the info. The pics you posted are very valuable. I have a couple of academy's NTS boxing, but I don't know which scheme I'm going to do yet.

I flew into the 2009 Heros Airshow, Hansen Dam Recreation area in So. Cal to display one of our helicopters. A "Whiskey" from Pendleton flew in to join us. I grabbed my camera and took a bunch of shots of it, but I didn't even think to look at the oil cooler shroud. Your pics will certainly help!
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  #59  
Unread February 24th, 2012, 08:04 PM
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You're welcome. Here is a better pictures of the fan and fan motor. This pictures is of a UH-1Y but the AH-1W and Z are the same.



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  #60  
Unread February 24th, 2012, 08:27 PM
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Moving back to the tail navigation lights...

The basic AH-1W had a nav light fairing that just consisted of a nav light and a flat radar warning antenna. An IR position light was later (early 1990s) added to the top of the fairing. In the mid '90s a wider fairing was added to incorporate a larger antenna. There were two version of the newer antenna, one being thicker than the other.

The basic MRC kit depicts the earliest housing but it is two narrow as half the nav light is molded into the fuselage. The NTS boxing adds the IR position light on top but the fairing is still too small.

In the first pic below the RWR antenna isn't installed, there is a blanking plate in its place.

The last pic shows the updating NTS boxing on the left and the basic Cobra issue on the right with my tweaked parts on top of it (not complete - I still need to add lights and antenna). Note how half of the kit taillights are cut off by the fuselage. This is a recurring problem with the kit (lights, steps, etc) - there is not enough "depth" to the parts molded on fuselage halves.

Edit: I tried to add a better picture of my "tweak" but my camera (or my photography skills) still sucks. You'll have to take my word for it, my tweak is gorgeous!












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Last edited by SuperCobra; February 24th, 2012 at 11:09 PM. Reason: "Tweaking"
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