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  #1  
Unread June 3rd, 2014, 09:27 PM
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Default Mr Surfacer...

You fellas that shoot Mr S, do you shoot it straight or dilute it? If you dilute, do you use thinner, rubbing alcohol, what?
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Unread June 3rd, 2014, 10:42 PM
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I assume you're referring to the spray can version of the product? I've been using Mr Surfacer for quite some time now. I just spray light coats straight from the can in continuous motions to avoid excessive build ups in certain areas. Also I use only the 1200 grade version for aircraft.

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Unread June 3rd, 2014, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by gb_madcat_sl View Post
I assume you're referring to the spray can version of the product? I've been using Mr Surfacer for quite some time now. I just spray light coats straight from the can in continuous motions to avoid excessive build ups in certain areas. Also I use only the 1200 grade version for aircraft.

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Unread June 3rd, 2014, 11:27 PM
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Its lacquer based, Chris. Dilute with any lacquer and you should be good. Mr thinner works best though, as I think its cut with something that makes it less aggressive compared to straight lacquer thinners.
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Unread June 4th, 2014, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by MickyG View Post
Its lacquer based, Chris. Dilute with any lacquer and you should be good. Mr thinner works best though, as I think its cut with something that makes it less aggressive compared to straight lacquer thinners.
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Unread June 4th, 2014, 05:38 PM
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Hiya Chris. I use a Badger Velocity with the .35mm needle. Any lacquer thinner should work although I prefer the Mr.Leveling Thinner. Always use the Mr.Surfacer 1200 and I go about 2:1 thinner:Surfacer. I also add Linseed oil... about 2 drops off the tip of a toothpick. This stuff acts great as a retarder for enamels and lacquers. Any rough surface is buffed smooth with an old T-shirt. HTH

/Jesse
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Unread June 4th, 2014, 05:47 PM
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^^^^Thank you my friend.
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Unread June 5th, 2014, 05:30 PM
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Chris

I use MS 500, 1000, 1200 for a few things on every model but have never spayed it. I prime everything I build. I use rattle can automotive lacquer, preferably the cheapest I can find. It puts that skin on everything from styrene, metal, resin and cures solid to sand with no shrinkage. I have never had a brand paint lift off of it. MS on gaps over this can be wiped with nail polish remover and it won't bite the primer when cured. Everyone has a technique and this is a solid one for me.

John
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Unread June 11th, 2014, 08:49 PM
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If you get spider webbing you need more thinner.
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Unread June 11th, 2014, 10:42 PM
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I use Mr. Surfacer 1200 as my main primer. I mix it 50/50 with Mr. Color Leveling thinner. It sprays on really well.
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