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  #1  
Unread January 25th, 2018, 07:41 PM
Craig Sargent's Avatar
Craig Sargent Craig Sargent is offline
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Default Hasegawa 1/48 Harrier tweak list

How to improve assembly of the kit (and my method is slightly different from the instructions), and then the "fixes" to make the model a more accurate representation of the Harrier too.

IMPROVING THE FIT
I assemble the 3 rear fuselage pieces (A1, B1 and B4) making sure to dry fit and test around the LIDS bay and speedbrake bay. Don't forget to open the holes for positioning the chaff/flare dispensers on the upper fuselage (if applicable), and the centreline pylon holes (also if applicable).

Once that is done and glue is dry, I fit B3 (also remembering to open the holes in that piece if applicable) to the fuselage parts. That gets the correct diameter to fit the intake trunk and sets up for wing fitment.

The wings are an area of debate. I believe the kink is too severe at the wing mid-section and so usually chose to correct it - if you are happy with the "kink" then join lower wings to the fuselage as per instructions. I have cut right through the lower wings and straightened, and I have also, on other builds, just scored lightly and then straightened. If scoring, bend and then fill the score line with super glue to hold shape until the top wing goes on. I refer to a good head on photo to get the angle right and mirrored between wings. The cut/score I do runs from the wing leading edge fence through the inside of the outrigger fairings.

Join the left nose half to the left forward fuselage section, and the right nose half to the right forward fuselage section. Build the cockpit (either kit, Aires, Black Box or whatever your poison is for your chosen variant) and join the forward fuselage halves. Remove the round tab on the rear of the fuselage (the one which would fit into the compressor face in the intake), and the round tab on top of the forward fuselage section behind the cockpit (this tab would normally fit into part B3 glued earlier).

Fit the intake trunk (A5) - after adding some styrene to fill the extraneous cutouts in the four corners of the intake, and painting it; and glue and sand the join around the edge where it meets the fuselage. This join will be seen through the auxiliary intake doors which are open on the ground.

Once that is done, I then add the forward fuselage to the rear fuselage.

Next up is fitting the LERX. I cut the lower LERX piece in half and remove the centre section. The two lower pieces are then joined to the upper piece. This makes it easier to fill and sand the lower seam, which is very hard to get at once the LERX is fitted to the fuselage. Then I join the LERX to the wing upper half, not the fuselage. This allows me to line up the panel lines and fill in that part of that join which should not be a panel line. The Hasegawa painting guide top view is very good at showing which part of the join is not panel line.

Now you need to dry fit the upper wing and LERX to the fuselage, because a little trimming along the top of the fuselage where the wing sits WILL be necessary. You will be able to tell, because there will be a gap in some places under the wing/LERX, and the wing may rock slightly forward and aft, like a see-saw, on the fuselage. This will show you roughly where to trim. Remove little bits at a time. If you follow this method, you should get a reasonably trouble free build.

Finally I add the intakes. This takes a little work to make for an easier fit. First add the auxiliary intake doors, G9, G10 and G11 to the intakes, A3 and A4. These are spring loaded on the real aircraft - at rest with engine off, top three on each side are fully open and the fourth one down on each side can be anywhere from fully closed to fully open. Dry fit the intakes. If you have followed my assembly sequence, there will be two areas to address. First the intakes sit further back than the fairings moulded to the forward fuselage for them. Don't worry about that yet. Secondly, the intakes may have a step where they meet the rear fuselage.

Trim 1 - 1.5mm off the inside bottom area of the intakes A3 and A4 where they meet the bottom of the forward fuselage (parallel to the intake doors). Test fit against the fuselage until there is no step with the rear fuselage. You're effectively reducing the circumference of the intakes. Once these are correct, glue in place and then carefully trim the front of the fairing from the forward fuselage halves to match the front of the intake lips.

CORRECTIONS
There are three small oval holes on the rear of the fuselage - two on the port side and one on the starboard. These are vents, not intakes, and Hasegawa has them moulded the wrong way around. Fill them and drill new vents.

The tail fin parts need some corrections. On the starboard side, there should be no access panels. Fill the small half square one near at the base of the rudder and the near rectangular one that sits between the formation light and rudder. On the port side, there is a panel missing just under the fin cap. It is a matter of scribing two lines in the right place to add it. Refer to reference photos to see where this panel sits.

Wingtips are separate pieces, and need some care fitting. The biggest issue is the underside reaction nozzle pieces, F8 and F9. Remove the locating pins and glue them lined up with their panel lines matching the panel lines on the underside of the wing. These will sit further back than the front edge of the lip moulded under the wing for them, but it is easier to get panel lines sorted than the lip, although there are quite a few panel lines missing that will also need adding. Once the glue is dry, simply trim the lip at the front for a better shape. While you are at it, drill out, or replace with tube, the small round protrusion at the back, as these are the fuel dump pipes.

Fill the panel line that sits about 5mm behind the intakes and runs around the fuselage as this is not present on the real jets.

If building the II+ or Night Attack jet (or any with the 100% LERX) with the canopy open, move the frogs eye inlets (parts S4 and S5) about 1mm outboard or else the canopy will not open far enough. If building any version of the Harrier with the canopy open, add the retractable step extended under the starboard intake, as this always extends as the canopy opens.

Remove the sway braces from the outboard pylons (M1 and N1) if fitting the Sidewinder rails.

Last edited by Craig Sargent; March 8th, 2018 at 08:41 PM.
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  #2  
Unread January 26th, 2018, 05:03 PM
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Incaroad Incaroad is offline
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Nicely done!
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Cheers!
Larry McCarley
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  #3  
Unread January 27th, 2018, 08:24 AM
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jefropas jefropas is offline
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I'm just going to send you all mine to build for me...make it easier! Great info Sir!

Jeff
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  #4  
Unread March 8th, 2018, 02:34 PM
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Craig Sargent Craig Sargent is offline
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Have them all boxed up and ready to go in 6 weeks. I'll take 'em as carry on home
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  #5  
Unread March 8th, 2018, 06:59 PM
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Lenny Lenny is offline
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Good stuff. Thanks for the great gouge. I’ve had one sitting in my stash for years.
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