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  #1  
Old July 21st, 2011, 01:25 PM
Jens Jens is offline
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Default 1/32 Dragon/Cyber Hobby Messerschmitt Bf109E-4

While building my Dragon/Cyber Hobby I have found a number of things that either need to be changed or simply are just nice to know.
The list will follow the steps in the instructions.

Step 1

- Part F30 is for the fighter-bomber version only (E-4/B). Simply leave it off if your model is a standard fighter version.
- The instrument panel was most often RLM66, however RLM02 and RLM41 have been observed on some airframes (probably mostly E-1s).
- Part F18 should be black.
- Part F28 should be modified to look more natural (canvas). The colour is brownish.

Step 2

- Most E-4s had RLM02 cockpits but some had RLM66. Your choice.
- The photo-etched seat belts do not look natural, so they are better substituted with a seat of Radu B.'s seat belts.

Step 3

- Do NOT fit parts A12 and A13 to the inside of the fuselage as shown! They are the small blisters found on the (outside) wing root.
- Make sure to dry-fit parts F43 and F44 before glueing them to the cockpit floor.
- Part A19 does not have to be fitted to the cockpit prior to assembling the fuselage. Leaving it off for later ensures a good fit between it and the fuselage halves.
- I am not sure part F33 is correct. It might have been the rounded version (A7) being bent in a wheels-up landing. Also, reduce the thickness of the plastic at the opening for a better look.

Step 4

- It will be easier to fit part F24 correctly if it's left off until after the cockpit has been assembled with the starboard side fuselage half.
- Fit the ammo boxes/firewall sub-assembly (parts B10, B11, B18 and B24) to the cockpit sub-assembly before fitting it all to the fuselage halves.
- Part F29 can be left off for later, so that adjusting the fuselage bottom (part A19) is made easier.
- Again, most of the interior is either RLM02 or RLM66 - don't paint everything black as suggested in the instructions.

Steps 5 & 6

- Thin the lifting lugs (parts J1) for a better look. Also, open up the triangular holes.
- Part E6 wasn't fitted to all E-4s. From pictures it seems to be mostly the Trop and E-7 versions.
- Part B13 does not have a clear attachment point. Fit according to references.
- The oil tank (parts B12 and B25) should be natural metal.
- Engine bearers (parts B14, B23 and B20) should be RLM02.
- Check you references to see if your E-4 has the splitter plate (part B9) in front of the oil cooler.

Step 7

- You might want to thin the edges of the cowling parts if you are to display them open.


...more to follow...


Jens
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Old July 21st, 2011, 05:08 PM
Jens Jens is offline
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Right, let's move on...

Step 8

- The small plastic pin (part C37) is long enough to be squeezed gently with a pair of flat pliers after all the fiddly bits have been put together. That way the hinge still works.
- Leave off parts C23, C42 and C46 until after the two wing halves have been glued together. Part C42 is for blanking off the E-1 gun port.
- Adjust the lower side on the two slat arms on part C22 and bevel the vertical part.


Step 9

- Glue part D16 to the wing before attaching part H1. The former should be RLM02 while the latter should be brown leather or canvas. The MG FF should be black.
- I have found that attaching the slat (part C48) to the wing with a strip of tape makes it easier to fit the slat actuator (part C22) correctly.
- Don't forget to paint the inside of the wing halves and part H1 RLM02.
- Save the position light (part G11) until after painting etc.

Step 10

- The small plastic pin (part C37) is long enough to be squeezed gently with a pair of flat pliers after all the fiddly bits have been put together. That way the hinge still works.

Step 11

- Leave off parts C24, C41 and C45 until after the two wing halves have been glued together. Part C41 is for blanking off the E-1 gun port.
- Adjust the lower side on the two slat arms on part C25 and bevel the vertical part (see picture above).

Step 12

- Glue part D17 to the wing before attaching part H2. The former should be RLM02 while the latter should be brown leather or canvas. The MG FF should be black.
- I have found that attaching the slat (part C36) to the wing with a strip of tape makes it easier to fit the slat actuator (part C25) correctly.
- Don't forget to paint the inside of the wing halves and part H2 RLM02.
- Save the position light (part G11) until after painting etc.

...more to follow...


Jens
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  #3  
Old July 21st, 2011, 06:11 PM
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Mentalguru Mentalguru is offline
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I will have to refer to this thread when I get round to building mine!

Did you add that there is an engraved line on the starboard forward canopy section that shouldn't be there?
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Old July 21st, 2011, 06:31 PM
Jens Jens is offline
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No, not yet but I will get to that. There are also a raised line (mould line?) on either side of the aft part of the canopy. They shouldn't be there either.

Thanks for reminding me anyway.


Jens
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  #5  
Old July 25th, 2011, 12:14 PM
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Good tips. I do know that the engine cowling/cover will not fit if you assemble all the gear & gun parts.
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Old July 25th, 2011, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaced View Post
Good tips. I do know that the engine cowling/cover will not fit if you assemble all the gear & gun parts.
That's right. My dry-fitting of the upper cowling parts has confirmed this.


Jens
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  #7  
Old July 25th, 2011, 06:19 PM
Jeff C Jeff C is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jens View Post
That's right. My dry-fitting of the upper cowling parts has confirmed this.


Jens
Actually they will if you take the time to grind out some plastic.
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  #8  
Old July 25th, 2011, 06:41 PM
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Jeff, how thin will you have to make the cowl pieces to make them fit?

Jens
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  #9  
Old July 25th, 2011, 06:51 PM
Jeff C Jeff C is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jens View Post
Jeff, how thin will you have to make the cowl pieces to make them fit?

Jens
Real thin. I wish I still had the one I did but I sold it. You need to grind out where the gun breaches hit on part A1 and where the engine mounts hit inside part B1. Just take your time and do alot of test fitting but it can be done. The only draw back is the inside of the cowls are a mess now. But with some work that can be made to look acceptable.
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  #10  
Old July 26th, 2011, 04:25 AM
Jens Jens is offline
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I thinned the edges on the upper cowl pieces of mine, and I think I will leave it at that on this one. I have another of these kits, so perhaps I will thin the cowl pieces on that one.


Jens
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  #11  
Old July 26th, 2011, 06:23 AM
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Steps 13 & 14

- Be careful when cleaning up and attaching the brake lines (parts E20 and E23) to the undercarriage leg.
- The main gear legs and interior of the gear covers should be RLM02. The cover over the oleo strut should be dark brown or black (I used MM rubber for this).
- The main wheel hubs should be semi-gloss black.
- This is the steps in which the wing root bulges (parts A12 and A13) should be installed.

Step 15

- The holes in the rear of the tail fin do not match up with the PE hinge (part MA5 and MA10). Drill a new hole to fit the hinge.
- It might be necessary to trim the rudder in order to fit PE part MA7. Do this and attach part MA7 to the tail fin before fitting PE parts MB7 and MB8 to part MA7.

Step 16

- Tail wheel leg should be RLM02, and the wheel hub should be semi-gloss black.

Step 17

- The tailplane struts (parts D1 and D7) are shown to meet the fuselage in a wrong position. The large oval holes above the tail wheel are the right places to fit these parts.
- A small bit of filler was needed to blend parts C32 and C33 into the elevators. Be careful with these parts as the PE parts are tiny.


...more to follow...


Jens
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  #12  
Old July 28th, 2011, 10:30 AM
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Jens, many thanks for this tweaks list!

Regards,
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  #13  
Old July 28th, 2011, 01:38 PM
Jens Jens is offline
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My pleasure.


Jens
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