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  #1  
Unread December 26th, 2010, 05:31 PM
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Default F-8E Crusader

Kit to be used:

- Monogram 1/48 F-8 Crusader, kit # 5826

Markings:

- AeroMaster 48-752 Colorful Crusaders Pt. IX - VMF(AW)-122 BuNo 149212 Modex 15

Aftermarket:

- Cobra Company F-8 Crusader Landing Gear, CC48014
- True Details Martin Baker Mk. F-5A Ejection Seat, TRU48422

General Details:

- Correct exterior details to early F-8E configuration:
Remove ECM Bulge from Tail.
Remove doublers from upper corners of MLG bays.
Remove Avionics Hump over the wing.
Used Spoked Nose Wheel from Cobra Company Set

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Last edited by Sabre Freak; February 13th, 2011 at 05:06 AM.
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  #2  
Unread December 26th, 2010, 10:03 PM
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Excellent choice of kit & markings! I've gig this kit too along with the Aeromaster decals for VMF-333.
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  #3  
Unread December 27th, 2010, 08:57 AM
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Thanks Spaced!

Started with some test fitting of the various parts that go inside the fuselage (Cockpit, IP, tail pipe, intake). I've developed a plan of attack that alows me, in parallel to paint the cockpit/IP, assemble the wings, and start assembling the fuselage.

Here is how I'm going to tackle the fuselage



I'll glue the red section first, then install the intake piece. That is going to involve a lot of putty and sanding to get rid of the seams. When I'm happy with that, I should have the cockpit & IP done, so I can install those, add some nose weights, and join the blue section. Last will be to drop in the tail pipe and join the white section.

The light blue shows the raised details I'm going to remove. On the tail is an ECM fairing that wasn't added till Viet Nam. In the upper corners of the MLG Bays are some doublers that were probably retrofitted on F-8s when they were rebuilt.
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  #4  
Unread December 27th, 2010, 09:21 PM
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While paint is drying, I started working on the Cobra Company landing gear.

The mono F-8 has been around a long time, and it's squat problem is pretty well documented. I didn't try to reconfirm it, I just bought a correction set from Cobra Company. In the correction set you get 3 white metal parts that replace the kit gear and a new spoked nose wheel if you wish to model a real early Crusader.

Spent the afternoon cleaning an polishing the new main gear. Here it is side by side with the kit part



The upper oleo strut (upper legs of the V) were slightly bowed on the CC part. I've straitened them as far as I dare to (don't want to break something) and I'm happy with the appearance.

Here is the CC Nose gear parts compared with the kit



In the side view you can see there is a small triangle part that is missing on the lower arm and in the view looking forward, the CC part is pretty bent at both ends (the axle and the trunnion)

Comparing the length of the 2 parts, I'm thinking it will be easier to extend the kit part than fix the CC part, so that's what I'm going to try first.



If I screw up the kit part, I can always fall back and correct the CC part.
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  #5  
Unread January 3rd, 2011, 11:03 AM
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Working on a bunch of things at the same time. Here is the progress on the wings:

They are a 4 piece affair. You have an upper & lower center sections, then single parts for the outer panels. Naturally the joint is at the wing fold, so you have the option of folded or extended wings.

My upper center section was pretty warped:



After a session with a hair dryer:



When I glued the center sections together, I came up with this clamp idea to make sure the L & T edges were strait:




Next step was the outer panels. The joint didn't look to bad across the top.



Bottom was a different story:



If I used filler, I'd probably destroy all the raised detail, so I glued pieces of card to the outer panel, then sanded them to fit.



And here is the finished wing


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Last edited by Sabre Freak; January 29th, 2011 at 05:35 AM.
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  #6  
Unread January 29th, 2011, 06:20 AM
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Another little project was boxing in the bay behind the MLG bays. It's a little tricky because you install the MLG trailing links, doors, and door linkages at the same time. All I did was a simple box...I was starting to get dizzy trying to make out the actual shape of that little bay from photos.

First step as add a rear bulkhead with card


Then I added some longerons to the door assembly


Using some slow drying thick super glue, I tacked in the top pieces to each bay. The super glue was thick enough to hold the parts in place, but I had enough working time get the door assembly ready and attach




Can't forget to glue on the door linkage, using some liquid glue (slower drying)



And drop in the door/trailing link/door linkage assembly in place
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  #7  
Unread January 29th, 2011, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sabre Freak View Post
While paint is drying, I started working on the Cobra Company landing gear.

The mono F-8 has been around a long time, and it's squat problem is pretty well documented. I didn't try to reconfirm it, I just bought a correction set from Cobra Company. In the correction set you get 3 white metal parts that replace the kit gear and a new spoked nose wheel if you wish to model a real early Crusader...

...Here is the CC Nose gear parts compared with the kit



In the side view you can see there is a small triangle part that is missing on the lower arm and in the view looking forward, the CC part is pretty bent at both ends (the axle and the trunnion)

Comparing the length of the 2 parts, I'm thinking it will be easier to extend the kit part than fix the CC part, so that's what I'm going to try first.



If I screw up the kit part, I can always fall back and correct the CC part.
I've looked at F-8 images and I'm not sure the "horns" or "prongs" should be there on the F-8E nose gear. I looked at close-ups of the F-8Cs and Ds and compared them to images of rebuilt F-8K and Ls. The Cs and Ds don't have them, but the Ks and Ls do have them. In period photos, the F-8Es don't appear to have them and photos of surviving Js definitely have them.

Could it be that the prongs/horns/triangles were part of a stronger nose strut in the rebuild from F-8Es to F-8Js?

EDIT - I just checked my D&S book and it says that the remanufactured F-8s received stronger nose struts with the prongs/horns/triangles. Just a quick check of my refs seems to support this statement. Can anyone else confirm this?

ANOTHER EDIT - Be careful looking at contemporary images of surviving F-8s. Here's an example - The F-8 on display at MCAS Miramar (and MCAS El Toro before that) is a F-8E that was remanufactured into a F-8J. The folks at the museum still INSIST on going simply by the BuNo instead of reading the maintenance records. It has the double-droop leading edge surfaces and the big ECM bullet on the tail which were features of the J, but not the E.
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Last edited by John B; January 29th, 2011 at 04:48 PM.
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  #8  
Unread January 29th, 2011, 05:45 PM
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Good catch JohnB! I appreciate it

Here is an F-8E, China Lake, circa 1961...no horns

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  #9  
Unread January 29th, 2011, 09:42 PM
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Another part I've sunk a little time into is the wing fuselage join.

First thing I did was glue some card on the fuselage mating surface to eliminate the step between the fuse & wing



But I still had some gaps because the conture of the lower surface if the wing didn't match the fuselage



To get a better match, I cut a hole in the lower surface of the wing, jammed in a piece of sprue that pushed down the lower surface.



That give me a much better mate

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  #10  
Unread January 30th, 2011, 08:02 AM
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Interesting build you have on your hands.

I see that you're using a TD seat. Did you ever consider using the TD F-8 cockpit? I don't know how accurate it is, but the detail is pretty crisp.
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  #11  
Unread January 31st, 2011, 12:58 PM
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Yea, the TD pit is the old KMC set, which is very nice, and fits very well. You just have to remove a part from the upper deck so it will fit right. In fact that is the one I am using for my two builds. I don't know what the quality of the casting is for the TD set is though.... Good job so far Chris. Oh, and you should come to our show in Rochester next weekend too

Cheers,
-Doug

Last edited by dsmith; January 31st, 2011 at 04:57 PM.
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  #12  
Unread January 31st, 2011, 01:45 PM
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The casting is actually probably the best of all my TD sets. Most are ok or good, but the F-8 set is pretty crisp. I've been lucky in that the only TD sets I've bought that were useless, were the F-4E cockpits.
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  #13  
Unread January 31st, 2011, 03:29 PM
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Thanks for the comments guys!

Never thought about using a resin cockpit on this one because I was going to have the canopy down, and while the kit cockpit is pretty accurate for an E, the seat wasn't.

FWIW, while I've bought my share of resin over the years, this is the first time I will have actually used some

Thanks again,

Chris
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  #14  
Unread February 1st, 2011, 03:34 PM
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Great build choice !! Coming along fantastic ! Can,t wait to it finished ! Will be watching this build with great interest
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  #15  
Unread February 5th, 2011, 11:28 PM
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Some pics of the tub, stick, and IP



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Last edited by Sabre Freak; February 5th, 2011 at 11:30 PM.
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  #16  
Unread February 5th, 2011, 11:44 PM
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Then we have the Nose Gear. I talked about this early on. I thought it might be easier to extend the Kit NG then try to straiten out the CC metal NG. Well, did my surgery tonight and it has been pretty easy. I drilled a 1/16 in hole down the strut, then used a razor saw to split the strut into 2 so I could insert a spacer. I drilled a 1/16 in hole in some rod and cut it to size. Here are what all the bits looked like



Here it is glued together



Still need to remove the horns, but for now they make a great "grab handle"
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  #17  
Unread February 6th, 2011, 12:27 AM
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This is as far as I've gotten to date:











I was going to try to prime it tonight, but now I think I'll sit on this for a bit. I've been asking some research type questions over in the Jets forum

http://www.zone-five.net/showthread.php?t=12270

Turns out that the 1962 VMF(AW)-122 F-8Es didn't have the avionics hump! Not sure what I want to do at this point. I'm afraid that removing the hump would be a real PITA at this point, mainly because of the spacer I added to adjust the curvature of the lower wing surface. Though I'd like to use the Aeromaster decals, I really don't want to try to remove the hump, and if I didn't remove the hump, I wouldn't feel right using the Aeromaster decals.

I could just leave the hump and pick up the Fox One USMC Crusader sheet that is still available at Flight Decs and do a different jet. The Fox One sheet has 2 options with the hump and without the ECM fairing on the tail. That would probably be the smart play...

Stay tuned, and opinions welcome!
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Last edited by Sabre Freak; February 6th, 2011 at 12:29 AM.
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  #18  
Unread February 13th, 2011, 03:02 PM
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After a good deal of thought, bye bye Avionics hump!

Tools used were a razor saw, Tamyia scribing tool, and a good old #11 Xacto knife

Before, top & profile


First thing I did was make some cuts with the razor saw across the hump, like this. The distance back for the rearmost cut was a total SWAG.


Then I used the scribing tool to cut along the intersection of the hump and the fuselage. I basically went from razor saw cut to cut.


When I began to cut threw in places, the scribing tool would bind, so I used the #11 xacto knife to pry off the pieces of hump.



Well, didn't take long at all to do the damage...Lets see how the repair goes
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Unread February 13th, 2011, 03:18 PM
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First part of the repair was to fill the hole with some card. I used .030 & .015 glued together then cut to fit the hole. You can tell in the profile shot that in the rear, the card is across the top of the fuselage, covering the hole. I did that so it would fair in better with the run-out of the vertical tail. In the front, the card fits in the hole, protruding just above flush with the fuselage sides.




Here is where I'm at right now. I've brushed on 2 coats of Mr. Surfacer 500 (grey stuff) and applied some 3M Blue Acryl putty. Letting everything dry before a sanding party tonight.
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  #20  
Unread March 2nd, 2011, 05:19 PM
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Update from the road...

I've gone 2 iterations of sanding. Here was the last one







With some Mr. Surfacer to cover any small imperfections





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Last edited by Sabre Freak; March 2nd, 2011 at 05:23 PM.
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